How to Build an Old World List in 2026

Choosing a faction is already a headache. But the real trouble starts afterwards: sitting down to write your first list and realising you don’t even know if what you’re building is legal—or if it’ll actually work on the tabletop.

It’s easy to fall into the same beginner mistakes over and over: picking lores that don’t really fit your army, or ending up with zero units that are actually set up to score secondary objectives.

This guide is here to stop that. It’s not a tier list, it’s not “copy this list”, and it’s not an app tutorial. It’s a step-by-step method to build your first list without headaches—coherent, legal, and playable.

1. Before you write the list: define the game context

1.1 Points: 1000 vs 1500 vs 2000 (and what restrictions change)

In The Old World, game size doesn’t just decide “how many minis fit”. It decides what kinds of lists make sense—and which mistakes become lethal.

The standard is 2000 points, but when you’re starting out and learning, it’s very common to play smaller games.

This points limit is something you agree with your opponent in advance (normally you both build to the same total).

There’s another big factor too: GW has released several restriction packs, and it’s normal for players to use one, another, both, or neither (you can set this in list-building apps later—don’t worry).

Grand Melee, Open War, Combined Arms, Battle March…

That’s also something you need to agree with your opponent (and if you’re going to a tournament, the event pack will tell you exactly what restrictions you’re using).

1.2 Deployment, terrain, and secondaries: what changes your list without you realising

A lot of people think a “good list” is good on any table. It isn’t. In The Old World, terrain, scenario, and missions change the entire game.

In a first casual game, you probably won’t know any of that before writing your list—but some groups agree it alongside points days before the battle (and in tournaments, you usually know the scenarios and missions in advance).

Let’s be practical.

If none of that is decided before list-building, we aim for a flexible list that can adapt.

If it is decided, we adapt.

How?

Imagine you agree to play without missions to “keep it simple” (which I think is a mistake—I explained why in another post you can link here).

In that case, why would I include units whose job is scoring secondaries? And why would I optimise model count for scoring—like bumping light cavalry from 5 to 7?

Exactly.

1.3 What you need on hand: rulebook, faction book, and current FAQs/errata

To build lists without screwing it up, you need a lot of material: the core rules, your faction book (or PDF if it’s Legacy), and current FAQs/errata.

That’s one option.

The second option is using… a website or app to build lists.

Paper vs app: why a tool saves you time and dumb mistakes

You can write a list on paper. The problem isn’t writing it—it’s checking it and repeating the process without going insane.

In The Old World, if you do everything by hand, an error will sneak in: percentages, 0–1 limits, magic item caps, incompatible options, gear that changes cost… and the classic “I left X points somewhere and it doesn’t add up.”

A good tool saves you two things: time and stupid mistakes. And most importantly, it lets you iterate fast. Your first list won’t be your final list. You improve by tweaking, playing, tweaking again, and repeating.

Here’s my comparison of two completely free tools that make list-building not feel like hell (link it here).

2. The real starting point: non-negotiables and a game plan

Before you talk percentages or “efficiency”, decide what you’re not willing to give up. That could be a model you love, a type of army (infantry, cavalry, monsters), a playstyle (aggressive, defensive, control), or just a narrative concept.

That’s not romanticising the hobby—it’s pragmatism.

Because this is a hobby.

And sometimes people forget that.

If you don’t feel like playing your list, you’ll eventually stop playing.

2.1 Your plan in one sentence: how do you win the game?

Your list should be summarised in one sentence that explains how you win—not how you kill, how you win.

For example: you hold the centre with a block and grind while controlling charges. Or you pressure with mobility to split the opponent. Or you play board control with cheap units and trades. Or you remove key pieces early so scoring becomes trivial later.

Pick one. But make sure it connects to your non-negotiables, because that’s what tells you how to support them so the list actually functions.

3. Legal list building in The Old World: the skeleton

Now we get into it:

Choose your army.

Choose whether you’re running a Grand Army, an Armies of Infamy list, or a Legacy army.

Start by adding your non-negotiables so you can see how many points you have left to make the rest of the list “work around them”.

3.1 Characters: General, BSB, and mages (roles, limits, and common mistakes)

You must include at least one character, because someone has to be the General.

If you include multiple characters, your General must be the one with the highest Leadership.

Beyond that, I want you to see characters as just another unit: something that needs a job and a reason to exist inside your army—something that helps the rest of the list work.

Some people overvalue characters. Others look down on them because they think Warhammer should be “units fighting units”, not characters.

Fine. They can have their opinions.

I’m teaching you to build a list that makes sense, not to get lost in internet debates.

Either way, you also need at least 3 non-character units, and you can’t spend more than 50% of your points on characters.

3.2 Core: minimums, faction requirements, and picking unit sizes

You must spend at least 25% of your points on Core units.

Also remember: they’re the only units that score, so it’s normal to choose them based on the missions you’re playing (we covered that earlier). If there are a couple of missions in play, I’d aim for around three Core units at Unit Strength 13–14, so they can still score even after taking some casualties.

Then, to reach your Core minimum, fill the rest with things that push your win plan forward and support your non-negotiables.

3.3 Special and Rare: what they actually add

I look at these the same way I look at characters.

You’ve got the bulk of your list.

Now you need tools that make it work. These units are exactly that: tools. Sometimes they fit, sometimes they don’t, and they stay out.

Just remember: they don’t score, and you also have caps on how many points you can spend on them—usually up to 50% in Special and 25% in Rare (some Armies of Infamy change this).

3.4 Mercenaries and allies: when they help—and when they just complicate things

We’re talking about your first list.

My advice: forget both of these sections entirely.

That’s it.

4. Roles a “real” list tends to have

Strictly speaking? None.

You don’t need anything. Do whatever you want—don’t let anyone talk you into thinking you must follow some sacred template.

That said, here are the typical roles you’ll see in solid lists:

4.1 Main pieces (or characters)

The block that holds. The threat that forces respect. The character that defines the plan. Not because “otherwise you can’t hit hard”, but because without a clear core, your army turns into disconnected pieces.

4.2 Support units (and support characters)

Good lists don’t win because they have four hammers. They win because those hammers reach the right place, at the right time, and hit when they’re supposed to.

Support can mean Leadership, charge control, screens, secondary threats, or tools to stop your main pieces getting bogged down.

4.3 Units that score missions

If your list is built only to kill, you’ll lose games you “should win” because the opponent beats you on scenario.

You need units whose job is simply to be in the right place on the right turn, and survive just long enough. Sometimes they’re cheap, sometimes not—but their job is to score or deny points. Remember: they must be Core units with Unit Strength 10+ to score; as soon as they drop below 10, they lose that job.

4.4 Tools to pick off enemy support pieces

If your opponent gets to play comfortably with their support, you’ll be playing uphill. Having a way to pressure war machines, skirmishers, support units, or squishy mages can swing a game even if those targets aren’t “the main fight”.

5. Magic in The Old World without melting your brain

Do you want to play magic?

Usually you already know if you want heavy magic (Level 3–4 casters), some magic (usually small casters or a single Level 3–4), or no magic at all.

Cool—follow your plan. But ask yourself one thing first:

5.1 What does magic add to your plan?

Does your game plan actually benefit from the magic your army can access?

If you’re not sure, check the lores your army has and the spells inside them. You can view them in the list apps I mentioned.

Once you’ve read them, you’ll know if magic is worth it. If not, spend the points elsewhere—but then you still need to think about…

5.2 Magical defence

Defence doesn’t mean turning your list into “the wizard list”. It means having tools and discipline: knowing what to dispel and when, being able to kill the enemy caster quickly…

Handle it however you want, but handle it.

Some armies, like Warriors of Chaos or Dwarfs, have easy access to Magic Resistance and can realistically go without a caster who dispels.

Others gamble on killing the enemy wizard fast and go without one.

The usual baseline is at least a Level 1, so you can dispel within 18″.

Decide.

6. Unit sizes, command, and gear: where you win or waste points

By now your list should be almost finished. Now you tighten the screws.

6.1 Musician, standard, and champion: when to pay for them

This is where people waste points without noticing. Here are solid general rules:

Musician: pay for it if the unit is likely to flee during the game, or if it’s likely to draw combats.

Champion: pay for it if the unit is going to fight enemy combat characters, if it’s charging alongside one of your own fighty characters, or if it brings useful Leadership to the unit.

Standard: pay for it only if you’re confident the unit won’t just die and it’s actually going to fight, or if you specifically want a magic banner that truly boosts the unit.

6.2 Magic items and banners: priorities and beginner mistakes

Some magic items (or combinations) are genuinely great and are what make a character build “make sense”.

Others aren’t worth a damn.

Before you include an item, ask: does this actually change whether the character can do its job properly? If the answer is no, save the points for another unit.

7. Game plan and stress-testing your list before you lock it in

7.1 Turns 1–2: deployment, charge threats, and space control

Before you play, picture turns 1 and 2. Where do your pieces go, what zone do you want to control, what charges must you avoid, what will you sacrifice if needed, and what do you do if you go second?

If your list has no clear answer to “I go second and my opponent pressures”, you’ll feel like you lost without playing.

Can you tweak something to prevent that?

7.2 Common matchups: what each one demands

Think about what you might face. Can your list beat that? If not, you still have time to adjust it.

“But I don’t know what I’ll face, I’m going to a tournament.”

Then ask yourself whether you can beat what’s most meta right now.

7.3 Final checklist before you print/send the list

Check your percentages, 0–1 limits, mandatory faction requirements, and all equipment. It sounds basic, but this is where the dumbest and most expensive mistake slips through.

Conclusions

Your first list doesn’t need to be perfect. It needs to be legal, have a clear plan and defined roles, and be built so your first game isn’t “I couldn’t do anything.”

And if you want real references for lists meant to be played seriously, I’ve got a section on the blog where I publish and explain competitive lists for The Old World

How to Build Your First Warhammer: The Old World List (2026)